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Kitchen Unconfidential: "Tony" Finds the Man Behind the Icon

  • Writer: Rua Fay
    Rua Fay
  • 1 day ago
  • 3 min read

There will never be another Anthony Bourdain. A chef, author, and true global citizen, who understood that a trip to the local hot dog stand could be just as meaningful as a meal at the French Laundry. Through his TV shows, Parts Unknown and No Reservations, Bourdain showcased cuisine from the hidden, underrepresented corners of the world, appreciating not only taste and history, but the true power of food: how it brings people together. In 2018, Anthony Bourdain died by suicide at the age of 61, leaving behind a legacy unlike anything the culinary world had seen before. Now, eight years after his death, that legacy is being revisited on the big screen through Matt Johnson's heartfelt biopic that examines everyone's favorite chef in a way never seen before. Before he was Anthony Bourdain, he was Tony...

While the world remembers the late great Anthony Bourdain as an American treasure, the professionalism and admiration he's synonymous with came much later in life. Tony follows 19 year old Bourdain during the summer in Provincetown, Massachusetts where he discovered his love for the restaurant business. The film stars Dominic Sessa, Antonio Banderas, Leo Woodall, Emilia Jones, Stavros Halkias, and more.

Bourdain described himself during this pivotal time in his life as "a spoiled, miserable, narcissistic, self-destructive and thoughtless young lout, and badly in need of a good ass-kicking." The Bourdain shown in this film could not be more different than the one audiences grew up with. What became a thoughtful, intelligent cultural icon started off as a self-centered, drunken mess with big ambitions and a bigger mouth.

Dominic Sessa, known for his breakout role in The Holdovers, delivers perhaps his best performance yet as Bourdain. Playing the late chef with a humanity seldom seen in lead roles. Together, director Matt Johnson and Sessa made young Anthony Bourdain unlikable, which is actually to the film's credit. Tony's greatest strength is its "warts and all" approach to a public figure who has become virtually sanctified since his untimely death, Anthony Bourdain was a brilliant man who inspired millions, but at the end of the day he was just a man with his own flaws, struggles, and inner-demons. Tony fundamentally understands that Anthony Bourdain was a figure loved because of his flaws, not in spite of them. Watching a young Bourdain discover his newfound passion for cooking instead of writing was an absolute delight to watch unfold on screen.

The setting plays a big role in Tony's overall story. Not only was it shot in Provincetown where Bourdain got his start, but the isolated nature of the town perfectly reflects his inner turmoil. The cinematography by legendary DP, Michael Baumann is as strategic as it is beautiful. As someone who grew up on the South Shore of Massachusetts, this film made me nothing short of cripplingly homesick.

After the cult success of Nirvanna The Band The Show the Movie, Tony was the last thing I expected from director, Matt Johnson but I find myself more than pleasantly surprised. Johnson put so much effort into the dynamics of the characters that they feel like a genuine family by the end. From Leo Woodall and Stavros Halkias' obnoxious back and forth banter to Sessa and Banderas' mentor/pupil dynamic, Tony feels less like a scripted film and more like a camera being pointed at a group of real friends.

Simply put, Tony is as cozy as it is chaotic, as daring as it is devastating, and as new as it is nostalgic. Sure to please longtime fans of Anthony Bourdain as well as create new ones. More than anything, Tony is a glaring reminder that one's story is never over and that things rarely go according to plan, but such is the beauty of life. Like Bourdain, the cast and crew behind Tony are imploring the audience to take risks, be open minded, and venture into parts unknown.

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